Another Kind of Eden.

Hey Ho…

So, with the sun well and truly casting its rays across Bagan, our guesthouse not in a position to permit us to check in until mid morning, with bicycles hired, Emma and I weighed up the pros and cons of some early morning exploration, in the local area.

Both Harris and Max seemed equally keen to make the most of the moment, so the four of us hastily peddled our push bikes down the dirt track back to the tarmac road, raced down the hill, then pulled off, and crossed a field. We had sight of an impressive temple, and Max was quick to ditch his bike, and plough through the foliage, so as to investigate.

Max announced “This is just like Indiana Jones”, and inspecting the temple which stood before us, I had to agree. None the less, our unconventional approach to accessing the site had resulted in us arriving at the back door, where we were met by an elderly gentleman who agreed to let us in, and show us around.

This was to be the first of many temples which Emma and I explored in the locality. All are distinct, and of course, each pay homage to Buddha with a variety of different statues, architecture, and art work. The temples date from the 11th to the 13th century, and many indigenous people to Myanmar believe that civilisation actually commenced in Bagan itself.

As we surveyed the area, a belief that here was indeed the origins of humanity did not actually seem to be that far fetched – the temples stand in their droves, and are complimented by hundreds of satellite buildings, which are termed pagodas. Once shown around, we were then taken up to a viewing platform next to the temple at hand, via a very narrow passageway, and afforded an aerial panoramic view of the landscape.

Our host guide next offered us a selection of his wares; traditional sand paintings which are abundant in sales terms, in and around the huge plethora of temples locally. At this point, it was fast becoming apparent that both Harris and Max had rather a dry sense of humour.

Whilst standing on the roof of the viewing platform, our guide had enquired whether we were travelling as a family? Obviously, Emma and I tried to take this comment on the chin as best we could – as neither of us are getting any younger. None the less, Harris was quick to point at Max, and state “No, he’s my ladyboy!”

Thereafter, Max surveyed the souvenir sand paintings available for purchase, only to announce to the guide that it was his intention to “Use one as a dishcloth” (I would add for the sake of completeness, that Max did later concede he had, in reality, a gift for his brother in mind).

None the less, these two guys struck a chord with us, and constantly had us smiling. An unlikely pair of travelling companions they were too in many respects, constantly poking fun at each other, whilst keen to see and experience Myanmar, as much as we were.

Unlike Harris, who had an apparently limitless knowledge of temple names in his mind, which he seemed to have seamlessly memorised from Lonely Planet, and very good pronunciation of expressions from the Myanmar language, which he could cite at the drop of a hat, Emma and I were running blind. Max and Harris were then off to investigate a second temple, of which they were aware was of historical significance, so again, we hopped on our push bikes, and followed.

Yet again, we found ourselves at the back door, but were quick to venture inside. By this time Max had added a bandana to his head, and was ruefully explaining that this was because he had been quite badly sunburned, a few days earlier. I suggested a hat might be a good idea, and confirmed that as a bald man, a hat was an essential piece of itinary for South East Asia (a sunburned bald head means I end up looking like a leper, within 48 hours).

Max confessed he had had several opportunities to purchase a hat, and had been actively looking for one, but vanity had got the better of him, and he had not bought one as he had not found a hat which he had particularly liked. The truth may have been that Max rather liked sporting his bandana, on his Indiana Jones Crusade. I did get the impression that he was somewhat unimpressed with my suggestion that the bandana made him look more like W Axl Rose from Guns’N Roses, than it did Doctor Jones (!)

Information poster at all temples.

Once inside the second temple we visited, a young guide agreed to show us around. A large standing golden Buddha inside was pretty impressive, least of all as it appeared solemn when you stood directly beneath it, but then appeared to be smiling, when you looked at it from a distance of 50 or so yards away. It was around this time that the guide enquired whether or not we were aware why it was that the statues of the Buddha depicted the hands the hands the way they were – one extended, and one held parallel horizontally to the chest?

Solemn…

Smiling…

Before anyone had had the opportunity to reply, Max enquired “Is it because he plays a shrewd game of poker, and is checking his poker hand?” At that point I actively had to walk after the guide so as to contain a fit of laughter, and not appear disrespectful. Thereafter, my impression of the Buddha was never to be the same, so I privately jested to Emma that we were going to get to see many statues of this shrewd poker player, and indeed we were!

The very friendly mother and sister of the Buddha

By lunchtime, the four of us had reached a replica of the Sultans Palace, not so dissimilar to the one we visited in Melaka, but constructed on a far greater and grandiose scale. We purchased a soft drink and relaxed in the sun. None of us had really had any sleep for getting on for 24 hours, and we agreed it was probably as good a time as any to cycle back to the town, and check in to our guesthouse.

Upon arrival, the guesthouse was busy, and chaotic. Despite having made a booking, Harris didn’t seem to have a reservation, and other Europeans were attempting to either check in themselves, or make bookings for their friends.

We finally all obtained rooms, and Emma and I lay down on our beds, anxious to gain some well earned sleep. I listened to the sounds of the horses and carts frequenting the road outside, as I dozed off to sleep.

Later that day, we would re-emerge, so as to further explore the ancient world which now surrounded us.