Hunting Komodo By Camera

Upon awaking on our final day on the Santosa, I peered out of the mid section deck, where we had been sleeping on mats on the floor, to discover I had missed the dawn, and the Komodo Islands were slowly passing us by.

The islands really do look unwordly, and I’m not convinced that our photographs really do them justice. They appear scorched and almost barren. Certainly desolate and devoid of all but the most primitive plants and animal life in many instances – a testament to the volcanic activity that historically crafted the weird and wonderful landscape, in which we found ourselves.

Wayne explained that the Captain had been cruising into the current overnight, and that our ETA would be later than expected, but that he was confident that we would reach the island which houses the Komodo National Park, sufficiently early to trek, so as to catch a glimpse of the Komodo Dragons. Indeed, the prior evening Wayne had said he was 99% certain we would sight a Komodo Dragon, suggesting that on occasion they are tempted down to the Park Rangers HQ, by the smell of food.

The scientific name for the Komodo Dragon is Varanus Komodoensis, and they are the largest living lizards on the Earth, inhabiting solely the Indonesian islands of Komodo and Rinca. A typical Komodo Dragon can weigh in at around 90kg, with an average length of 2 to 3 meters. Life span can be anything up to 60 years old.

The Komodo Dragon is a carnivore, which utilises a long yellow deeply forked tongue to taste, as well as to detect, stimuli. The Komodo will ambush live prey at great speed, to include invertebrates, birds, mammals and even their own – juvenile dragons may be eaten if their food supply is low enough. Numerous rumours are circulated by locals regarding their ferocity.

At Senggigi, one man told me that a shrewd Komodo Guide or Tracker would take a live goat to throw at the Komodo Dragons as a sacrifice, in the event an ambush of a human were to occur. Other people spoke of a European tourist being devoured by a Komodo Dragon, as recently as 2012.

Upon arrival, we moored up and collectively walked up to meet our Rangers. We were briefed on the Komodo Dragons, and it was explained that due to the fact that they are cold blooded, they must sunbathe in the mornings, so as to warm up. We were warned that although they appear docile, not to be fooled, as they can run at considerable speed, should they want to. I glanced at Sebastians flip flops as one of the Rangers stated that were any of us to be pursued by the Komodo Dragons, we should run in diagonal lines, switching direction intermittently, as we fled.

Each Ranger held aloft a long wooden stick which was forked at the end, and it was apparently with these crude devices that they would safeguard us. Our briefing completed, we were separated into two groups, and we followed our respective Rangers into the Park itself. Hot and dusty, the environment did boast a plethora of trees and vegetation. A short time passed before we spotted deer running through the undergrowth, prior to our Ranger halting, and turning to us.

In all honesty, so well disguised was the Komodo Dragon which he had located, had Emma and I been on our own, we might very well have walked straight past it! This was despite his ominous size, as they lounge amidst exposed tree roots and by fallen branches of trees, which cunningly disguise them. Moreover, a surprise ambush would be easy, as they sit perfectly still, and to that end it was easy to envisage how they might snare their live prey, although the Komodo Dragon is not adverse to consuming carrion either.

The size of the Komodo Dragon is impressive. We were instructed that were one to bite you, their saliva is so rancid and ridden with bacteria, that in the absence of medical treatment, death would be an inevitability. Moreover, the Komodo Dragon then follows its unfortunate victim, like a vulture circling a desert sky, happy to eat its prey when they drop dead, or cannot continue due to sickness. Bizarrely, the Komodo hunts daily, but eats one meal, which it digests over a month.

The Komodo we were standing a few feet from was lounging near a waterhole, and the Ranger explained that this was a common place for them to catch their prey. That said, it was very docile, and the Rangers prodded him or her repeatedly, albeit from a distance, so as to prompt it to move.

You can clearly see the Rangers in action in the background of these photographs I took of Emma, as she stood in close proximity to these almost jurassic beasts. Apparently they can swim short distances, and I certainly wouldn’t like to encounter one on a dark night alone, that’s for sure!

Then we were off with our Ranger for a short trek, where we glimpsed a second adult Komodo Dragon, and then several juveniles. Finally, back at the Rangers HQ, a third adult who was far less docile than the first, paced around the outhouses, looking decidedly hungry. The Rangers ushered us into their HQ reasonably quickly, thereafter. As Wayne had promised, purchasing souvenirs and/or a beer “was possible”. Sebastian, Emma and I elected to opt for a soft drink as it was still early in the day, yet to our surprise, some of the straighter Santosa passengers did buy a beer. We speculated that perhaps they were calming their nerves!!

The baby…

This adult was rather feisty..

Then an amusing thing happened; a Spanish couple suddenly spotted a very docile Komodo Dragon, lurking under the steps up to the Rangers HQ. None of the Rangers were discussing this particular specimen, and appeared to be embarrassed that we had noticed it. We came to the conclusion that this particular Komodo Dragon was the rangers pet – a back up for the tourists, just in case none had been located during the Trek through the park itself. We nicknamed this particular Komodo Dragon ‘Plan B’!!

Plan B…

It was time to head back to the Santosa. As we departed down the jetty, a tour party of local people arrived, with an eager buleh snapper leading, who photographed the French guys as they passed them by, not that I think that the French men realised what was occurring. Then we were back aboard and we cruised to Red Beach, which has a small amount of red sand on its coastline, hence its name. The snorkelling there was very good, even if I did end up with sunburn on my back, after only an hour or so of swimming!

Red Beach

Pulling anchor.

Thereafter we ate lunch on the Santosa, and we were on the final stretch of our journey – the cruise to Flores. On route various fishing villages could be seen on the shores, and a variety of boats passed us by. Finally we weighed anchor in the quaint harbour of Flores itself, and were ferried into the dock by the small boat, utilised for purpose, by the Santosas crew.

Bliss…

Labuan Bajo, Flores

Sebastian said he would meet us on dry land, as he was taken across prior to us, and he was good to his word. The three of us found a cheap guesthouse, and wondered whether or not we should return to the Santosa for a farewell party, to which we had been invited.

Our guesthouse

The prospect of another evening with the LFB wasn’t that inviting, despite the fact that Wayne and the crew of the Santosa had been fantastic, and that we had had an amazing few days. I figured we could’t hold Perama Tours responsible for our fellow passengers – that just boils down to blind luck. But we thought Perama’s “Hunting Komodo by Camera” tour was excellent. I would recommend it to anyone.

Emma turned to Sebastian and enquired “Do you want to go back to the boat for the farewell party?” Sebastian sounded unconvinced when he replied “I really don’t mind either way”. Emma asked “You don’t want to go back do you?” Sebastian said “No, I don’t…”

(Later that night I went to the Perama office in Flores, and the Captain of the Santosa was there. He looked a little upset I was not at the party – he kept saying “Why you not at the party?”, I made our excuses, but felt rather guilty – Emma)

The three of us next found a bar restaurant with a beautiful view of the sunset, ate a great meal, and drank until we were politely requested to leave, albeit at closing time!